Archive of the Month
Pictures from a tour in Palestine 100 years ago – article
Archive of the Month – June 2012
Please click here to view slideshow
Like the Indian pictures, we speculate that this collection dates from the early 20th century, probably no later than c. 1912, and certainly no later than 1918, when Turkish rule of Palestine came to an end. We know this because in a couple of images (including the opening one of the arrival of the boat at the landing place) the Turkish flag is flying, while at the shrines within the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem – by tradition built over the little cave where Jesus was born – armed Turkish guards are clearly visible keeping watch at these holy sites.
We further speculate that all the images in the Palestine collection were taken by the same photographer, who as yet remains unidentified and judging by the quality of his work (including the set up and composition of his pictures) was either a professional or very skilled amateur.
Now, probably for the first time since they were processed and shown to the photographer’s fascinated contemporaries following his return home from the pilgrimage, digital technology makes it possible for a worldwide audience to time travel on the journey of an early 20th–century Irish (possibly Church of Ireland) pilgrim.
In the full slide show viewable below not only are the wonders of the holy sites captured, but even more interesting we get rare glimpses of daily life for ordinary people in the streets of Jerusalem and other places throughout the Judean ‘wilderness’, as well as a sense of the nature of travel via steam ship, railway and carriage in Palestine as it was during the last days of Turkish rule.
This began at Jaffa – over 50km west of Jerusalem on the coast, considered ‘the harbour of Jerusalem and entry point to the Holy Land’. The opening slide is simply labelled by the photographer as ‘boat going through the rocks’, and it shows one of the tender boats that collected passengers from the steam ships to bring them safely to shore at ‘the landing place’ in the inner harbour, shown in the next image. According to ‘Baedeker’, Jaffa was prone to ‘obstruction by breakers’ forcing the packet boats to drop anchor a mile or more from the shore, with the result that ‘the landing is consequently rather unpleasant, and becomes impossible if the sea should be rough’ (in which case the boats would be directed further north to Haifa for safer disembarkation). On this occasion, however as the opening slides show, the sea was relatively calm and arrival at ‘the landing place’ looks smooth.
The steamers generally arrived at Jaffa very early in the morning, according to ‘Baedeker’, giving the traveller time ‘to look around the town’ before taking the 2pm train for the trip down to Jerusalem – then a four–hour train journey stopping at various points along the way. Clearly our photographer did just that, for the next slide shows he has clambered with his camera to the top of the town to a famous landmark – Simon the Tanner’s House (where Peter is said to have been staying when he had his visionary dream of heaven, and where he revived Tabitha) to take an aerial shot of the harbour, with the docked packets beyond the rocks in the background, and the lighthouse (constructed in 1875 to guide ships and fishing boats through the rocks) in the foreground.
The train station, completed in 1892 (which had opened up the city’s tourism from that date) was located a couple of miles south west of the walled city, and in the foreground of the arrival image shown above, we can see a group of the infamous dragomen on their donkeys who frequented the Station Road hoping for hire by incoming travellers. ‘Baedeker’ warned readers only to use reputable dragomen, and our photographer appears to have passed through them, probably by carriage, and on to where the Station Road terminated at Jaffa Gate and, as he describes it: ‘the citadel of Zion’.
Basing himself in the one of the Christian guest houses or hostels, our photographer may initially have spent several days photographing places in Jerusalem and its immediate environs. Over half of the surviving images in this collection were taken in and around Jerusalem – indicating the city’s primary importance in biblical history, and also in the mind of the touring pilgrim. However, he also took excursions to several other locations, captured in the remaining photographs of the collection, as we will see below.
Starting in Jerusalem then, one can imagine our intrepid traveller, setting up his stand to steady the camera for the several stunning wide angle views of the walls of the city which we have next gathered together.
Views of the city ‘from the north’, ‘looking south’, of Mount Zion – location of the room of the Last Supper and Church of the Dormition, from the tower of the Church of the Resurrection ‘looking towards the Mount of Olives’, of the city ‘from Olivet’ (the Mount of Olives) and of the ‘Mount of Olives from the City Wall’ all provide valuable visual context for the viewer.
We have next grouped images of other holy sites in Jerusalem together. A single image of the then very cramped area referred to as the ‘Jewish Wailing Place’ at the Western Wall, and two of the Dome of the Rock or Mosque of Omar show fleeting deference to the most holy sites of the other Abrahamic faiths. By contrast, it is biblical scenes relevant to Christianity that appear to afford most of our photographer’s attentions – the Ecce Homo arch, over the path that according to tradition Jesus walked carrying his cross on the way to his crucifixion where Pontius Pilate declared ‘behold the man’; the Towers of Antonio and David, as well as the Pool of Bethesda associated in Christian tradition with the healings of Jesus, and Solomon’s Quarries, follow next.
In the immediate environs of the city, our photographer spent further time. To the north, two images of ‘Gordon’s Calvary’, or the Garden Tomb – being the alternative site for Golgotha speculated by General Charles Gordon at the end of the 19th–century, and widely considered and visited from that time as the alternative ‘Protestant’ site for the burial and resurrection of Jesus – may reveal our photographer’s Protestant identity.
To the east, he takes two evocative images in the Garden of Gethsemene, before heading into the Kidron Valley, capturing Absalom’s tower and the pool of Siloam at the village of Siloam, the latter associated in Christian tradition with Jesus healing the blind man. Finally, he captures a view looking back to Jerusalem from ‘Ein Royal’, being Ein Karem associated as the birthplace of St John the Baptist, and ‘Joab’s Well’ located therein.
On the way to Shechem – site of the Samaritan monastery, our traveller stopped off at the biblical sites of Jacob’s Well where Jesus met the Woman of Samaria, which is tended in the image by a
The traveller might have returned to Jerusalem, or perhaps he moved west to Haifa to catch his steam packet home, or there again he might have continued his travels by road further north into Syria. No further images survive to tell us of his onward journey, or how his Holy Land journey was completed. We can only speculate and hope that at some future date the photographer and his story might be more fully explained.
All 74 of the slides in the Palestine lantern slide collection measure 80mmx80mm and are in good condition. They were arranged randomly in their original storage box, and to make some geographical sense have been rearranged for the slide show presentation in accordance with itineraries in the ‘Baedeker’ travel guide. Most of the slides were labeled with a brief description by the photographer, making it easy to identify most of the locations. Each label is reproduced here as the relevant caption for each slide, or where no label is present, information given in square brackets supplements the missing text. Additional description information is also provided in square brackets. Although they now comprise only 74 slides, the numbering system still visible on most of the slides would indicate that the surviving images were part of a much larger collection, no longer extant.
To view the “tour of Palestine 100 years ago” slide show click here.
From the BBC NI website:–
Article: www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-18983568
Slideshow: www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-northern-ireland-19017376
For further information please contact:
Dr Susan Hood
RCB Library
Braemor Park
Churchtown
Dublin 14
Tel: 01–4923979
Fax: 01–4924770
E–mail: susan.hood@rcbcoi.org